Are you ready to add a popover placket to your sewing project? This free downloadable pattern piece and tutorial can be used with our Liesl + Co. Classic Shirt pattern to give your garment a fresh new look. I personally used it to convert the Classic Shirt pattern into a shirt dress. (For more details on how I extended the Classic Shirt pattern to dress length, check out my Classic Shirt as a Dress post.) The popover placket is especially appealing on dresses because it prevents any unwanted gaps or button popping below the waist, which can be quite frustrating when sitting down. Additionally, it reduces the number of buttons and buttonholes you need to sew, making the process a bit easier.
But don't limit yourself to dresses! You can also use this popover placket and tutorial to update your Classic Shirt into a popover style, giving it a whole new vibe. We want you to maximize the potential of our patterns!
So, how do you sew a popover placket? It’s quite similar to the tower placket found on the sleeves of the Classic Shirt pattern. If you've already worked with that pattern, this will feel familiar. Let me guide you step by step.
First, download, print, and assemble the free popover placket pattern piece. Cut out one popover placket with the fabric right side facing up and transfer the pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Baste the outer edge of each placket piece with a 1/2" seam, as shown, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse or baste a 1" strip of interfacing to the wrong side of the placket, aligning the edge of the interfacing with the basting stitches.
Next, using the basting stitches as a folding guide, fold and press the fabric to the wrong side along the basting stitches. If you'd like the underplacket to feature a different colored fabric, you can cut the pieces from two different fabrics using the cut line. Alternatively, just cut along the cutting line to the dot.
To adapt your Classic Shirt pattern to be cut on fold, draw a line 1/2" inside the Placket Fold Line for View B. This line marks the center front of the shirt/dress and can also be used to cut the pattern piece on the fold of the fabric. Trim and discard the extension of the pattern piece. Then cut out your fabric and draw the center/fold line on the wrong side of the fabric.
For sewing the placket, pin the right side of the prepared placket pieces to the wrong side of the shirt/dress front, matching the cut line on the placket to the center-front line on the shirt/dress. Cut down the center-front line of the shirt/dress to the dot on the popover placket piece so both pieces have the same opening. Then stitch the opening with a 1/2" seam, following the markings you transferred from the pattern pieces to pivot and stitch across and then back up the other side.
After clipping from the marked dot to the stitched corners—don’t hesitate to clip close to the corners—it's time to turn the placket through the cut to the right side of the shirt/dress. This reveals the rectangle-shaped opening where the placket will eventually be. Press the narrow seam allowances at the bottom of the opening down and make sure they stay pressed to the right side of the shirt/dress for the next steps.
Before proceeding, use a water-soluble fabric pen or tailor’s chalk to draw a horizontal line on the right side of the longer (wearer’s right) placket at the same level as the bottom of the rectangle. We’ll use this as a stitching guide later.
We’ll start with the shorter (wearer’s left) side of the placket. Fold the pre-folded outer edge of the left placket in half to cover the stitching line, ensuring the short edges at the top of the placket are folded to the right side of the shirt/dress. Edgestitch the innermost folded edge, stopping just above the line you drew on the right side of the placket. The left half of the placket is now complete!
Now focus on the larger (wearer’s right) placket. Fold it similarly to the smaller placket so the pre-folded edge covers the stitching line. Fold the left side of the shirt/dress down to keep it out of the way, then edgestitch the right placket starting at the neckline and stopping at the line you drew earlier. You can choose to edgestitch both sides of the placket or just the innermost edge, leaving long thread tails to draw to the back and knot. This gives a neat finish since we’ll be stitching the rest of it in the next step.
Position the two sides of the placket so they’re directly on top of each other, checking to ensure the neck edges match, and pin them temporarily. Finger-press the bottom of the left placket to form a sharp point, either by using the dots transferred from the pattern piece or by folding until you're satisfied with the shape. Pin or glue the pointed end of the placket in place, then edgestitch beginning at the left placket’s innermost edge (opposite the placket opening) and stitching across at the level of the line you drew on the placket. Pivot and continue to edgestitch around the placket to finish it.
And there you have it! From here, continue with the rest of the Classic Shirt instructions to complete your shirt/dress. Not so bad, right?
I’ll be back on Friday with another post to guide you through adding pockets and a self-tie to this dress. Stay tuned!
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ShaoXing Millson Apparel Co., Ltd. , https://www.zjmillson.com