When I first laid eyes on that iconic Claire McCardell dress, it sparked something in me. Her design struck me as effortlessly simple yet strikingly elegant, with the way the fabric flowed like the drapery of ancient Roman sculptures. This particular piece resides in the Metropolitan Museum of Art's collection, and their description really resonated with me:
"McCardell’s classic day-to-evening dress seamlessly combines the understated charm of a peasant blouse with the sophistication of an Empire silhouette, achieved through delicate spaghetti straps at the waist and neck. Is she Esmeralda or Madame Récamier? Perhaps she embodies both the everyday and the extraordinary. Moreover, if the dress echoes the columnar folds of ancient or Romanesque sculptures, it’s also a testament to ready-to-wear versatility, adaptable to many body types."
I took inspiration from this while designing the Positano Blouse + Dress. If you're unfamiliar with Claire McCardell, let’s save that story for another time. She was truly ahead of her time as America’s first sportswear designer. Today, though, I want to share how her work influenced my creation and how experimenting with certain fabrics brought this vision to life.
Developing patterns takes a lot of thought—considering construction techniques, drafting instructions, and creating illustrations. But I also enjoy playing around with my designs during the process to explore their potential beyond the basic blueprint. When I stumbled upon two unusual fabrics at my local shop, I couldn’t resist buying them. They reminded me of the McCardell dress that had captivated me earlier, with their fluidity and neutral tones.
I decided to try them out as versions of the Positano Dress, extending the hem to fit my personal preference for longer dresses. Here’s what I came up with:
The gray fabric is a heavier woven synthetic—likely a blend of polyester and rayon. It’s matte yet subtly luxurious, with an intriguing texture akin to a double weave. The brown one is a lightweight cotton jersey, nothing overly special except for its breezy lightness. Let’s take a look at the results.
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The jersey version drapes beautifully, hugging the body gracefully. The length adds elegance, preventing any clinginess. Meanwhile, the gray fabric holds its structure better, offering a sturdier feel without sacrificing gracefulness. These would make excellent travel dresses: the gray resists wrinkles so well it’s nearly impossible to crease, while the brown jersey’s softness ensures wrinkles disappear easily.
You might wonder about fabric choices outside the recommended options on our patterns. These examples show how versatile the Positano Blouse + Dress can be depending on the material. Which do you prefer?
Stay tuned—I’ll be showcasing another Positano Blouse and a Laureles Dress soon!
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As always, thank you for joining me on this creative journey. If you have any questions or thoughts, feel free to reach out!
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