Saint Laurent: Old boy, needs a little more dream

In 2018, a group of people in the fashion industry were taken to Jersey City for shipping. It was like sending them to Brooklyn in 2008. Before landing, they would only complain. It is not far from here.

The show floor was paved with dark gray tiles that looked like Lego bricks. Entering here, everyone instantly understood why Anthony Vaccarello wanted to put this (almost) his own first menswear dynamic conference in this Jersey. City docks. The designer, who was transferred to Saint Laurent two years ago, has frequently resorted to classic landmarks as his background. In Paris, he chose the Eiffel Tower; in New York, you have to leave the island to capture the most classic picture. At the end of the conference, Vaccarello took the boys off their tops, and their chests were sprinkled with sparkling metallic silver paint powder to form a flowing river of light against the city skyline.

Before New York Mens Week officially kicked off, he chose to display in New York - first and foremost a clear and powerful manifesto. Vaccarello hopes that the world will know that he puts men's wear design on the same level as women's wear. After all, his research and development process has been rather slow during these two years. With the address selected in North America, the North American market is still in a period of rapid growth, with only 28% growth in the first quarter of 2018.

However, the degree of declaration of the clothes itself is not so strong. His design concept originated mainly from Saint Laurent in the 1970s, including the design worn by the founding designer Yves Saint Laurent himself. The added configuration is More suitable for high-heeled cowboy boots, lace-up hunting jackets, silver embossed Concho straps or Contemporary consumers of jeans. But there are moments when it comes to returning to Hedi Slimane: thin-looking models wear tight-knit jeans, head wears a Porkpie hat, and a large towel around their necks.

Regardless of whether you love or hate the designer's “big rib” temperament, Vaccarello will undoubtedly quickly put his mark on Saint Laurent Couture. His efforts never felt like Slimane possessed.

This season's men's collection is very subtle in details (such as an aviator jacket with feather-cut embroidered flowers), a variety of silk shirts (one of them with an elegant Paisley swirl pattern, the other is still flowing A metal-colored yarn is also worthwhile to talk about in the first half of the conference. But you will find that the entire series gives a strong sense of familiarity and over-reliance on past designs. In addition to the men's models shown by the female models, their relatively sculpted figures brought softness and compelled viewers to take a fresh look at them.

"I wouldn't do it, even a so-called breakthrough I couldn't accept myself," Vaccarello said to the crowded reporters in the background after the conference. "I'm only doing what I want to do."

The clothes did not make people feel refreshed. You can also say that this is a good thing. After all, Saint Laurent still has the goal of pointing to a value of 3 billion U.S. dollars. A reliable and coherent style can appeal to the existing consumer audience and constitute the key to future growth. But for example, for Kering’s flagship brand, Gucci, the key to this kind of consistent growth through continuous efforts is to continue to dream while closely adhering to reality. What Vaccarello still needs now is a little more dream.

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